Glossary of Gem and Diamond Settings

Glossary of Diamond and Gem Settings

Are you a fan of pavé?
How do you feel about prongs?
And what, exactly, is a bezel?

To the regular person, this jewelry jargon might seem a little confusing.

These are all terms for different styles of setting a gemstone into precious metal. Each requires a slightly different technique and has a different aesthetic appeal. But when done correctly each can incorporate gems into your jewelry for a lifetime of wear.

Each setting technique gives the jewelry a slightly different look — from the sleek and minimal to decorative, romantic, or modern — and appearance is one factor you can use to determine the style for you. But the durability of your gemstone and your personal wearing habits should also come into play.

Let's explore a few of these popular setting techniques below.

 

BEZEL

Round Bezel Set Solitaire with Moissanite in Yellow Gold

Bezel Set ring with an emerald cut moissanite in white gold

In a bezel setting, the gemstone is surrounded by a lip of metal that secures the stone in place. Bezels can be crafted with thick or thin walls. 

This type of setting adds visual size to the stone while also keeping the edge of the gem protected. This makes bezel settings a great option for folks with an active lifestyle.

USED FOR:

  • Center Stones
  • Accent Stones

 


PRONG 

 
Round Prong Setting Solitaire with Antique Diamond in Yellow Gold
Round Prong Setting Solitaire with Antique Diamond in Yellow Gold
Round Prong Setting Solitaire with Teal Montana Sapphire in Yellow Gold Round Prong Setting Solitaire with Teal Moissanite in Yellow Gold
Round Prong Setting Solitaire with rose cut pink sapphire  in Yellow Gold
Round Prong Setting Solitaire with rose cut pink sapphire  in Yellow Gold
Three stone prong setting ring with rose cut diamond in white golg
Three stone prong setting ring with rose cut diamond in white gold


Prong settings come in a variety of shapes and styles, but they essentially function the same: small metal wires are evenly placed around the gem and grip it into place. These prongs can be round, flat, pointed, or even V-shaped. In many cases a special notch called a "seat" is carved into the prong to hold the edge of the stone.

Prong settings allow you to see more of the diamond than the surrounding metal and also let more light into the sides of the gemstone.

Prong settings do sometimes snag clothing and can bend or break with heavy wear. It is important to have prong-set gems inspected regularly by your jeweler.


USED FOR:

  • Center Stones
  • Accent Stones

PAVÉ

Pave Set Diamond Band

Pave Set Diamond BandPave Set Gold Ring

The translation of the French word pavé is "to pave". In this setting style the gemstones are set very close together and held in place by small beads of metal. The resulting look is that the surface is paved with gems.


By using variety of diamond sizes, jewelers can create layouts that cover nearly any shape.


USED FOR:

  • Accent Stones

 


CHANNEL

Channel Set Diamond Band by Corey Egan

In this linear style of setting, diamonds are set into a groove between two ridges of metal. This method leaves a clean, modern edge and looks as if the gems are floating in between.


USED FOR:

  • Accent Stones

FLUSH

Flust Set Diamond Band by Corey Egan

Flush set gems are embedded into the surface of the metal. In this type of setting, the top of the diamond, or table, is level with the metal around it. The point at the bottom of the diamond does not protrude from the back side.

USED FOR:

  • Accent Stones

HALO

Offset Pear Blue Rose Cut Sapphire Halo Engagement Ring in Yellow Gold

Oval white rose cut sapphire halo ring in yellow gold

A halo setting incorporates two methods of gemstone setting into one finished look. A center stone held in place by a bezel or prongs is surrounded by a border of smaller stones. These gems can be held in place using any of the former gem setting techniques: prong, channel, flush, or most commonly, pavé.


USED FOR:

  • Center + Accent Stones
Shop Diamond Wedding Rings by Corey EganShop Engagement Rings by Corey Egan

 

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Glossary of Diamond and Gem Settings by Corey Egan