How It's Made: Lost Wax Casting Part 3 - Finishing

Photography by Ryan Leggett

With a freshly cast bit of gold in hand, it’s finally time to refine and finish our ring.

The next few steps involve sawing, sanding, and polishing our ring until the surface is just right. Then, we’ll take our time setting a beautiful Old European Cut diamond into the center. 

Polishing and Setting

Sawing off the Sprue - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

The sprue and button left over from casting must be removed from the bottom of the ring. A jeweler’s saw makes quick work of this task.

Sawing off the Sprue - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

Using a File to Shape the Ring Band - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

Next, we shape the bottom of the ring with a file. When we get the curve just right, we switch to sandpaper. We clean the whole ring using progressively finer grits of sandpaper to leave a perfectly smooth surface. Truthfully, this step can be tedious. But the results are worth it!

Sanding the Inside of the Ring - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

The inside of the ring is stamped with a hallmark and then sanded down using a sanding drum. Once the inside is perfectly smooth, the ring is ready for its first polish.

At the Workbench - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

Polishing the Ring - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

The polishing compound on this wheel is a light abrasive. It smooths down the metal and removes the finest of scratches. The surface of the gold begins to shine.

Cutting the Seat for a Diamond - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

Using a bur we’ll cut a seat into our beads to hold the diamond. These notches give our diamond a secure place to sit.

Cutting the Seat for a Diamond - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

Placing the Diamond in the Seat - How a Ring is Made - Corey EganThe diamond is carefully placed into the ring using stick of wax. When it’s positioned just right, we use a tool to gently force the beads down over the edge of the stone. The beads are shaped back into little domes.

Setting the Diamond - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

Polishing the Ring - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

The Finished Ring - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

The ring gets the final polish after the diamond is in place. Check out that sparkle, baby!

Issa Ring - How a Ring is Made - Corey Egan

We end with a gleaming gold ring that’s ready to wear!

How It's Made (From Left to Right) Block of Wax, Progression of Carved waxes, Freshly Cast Gold Ring, Finished Ring with Diamond - Corey Egan

 

 

Continue Reading - How It's Made Part 1 - Carving
Continue Reading - How It's Made Part 2 - Casting

About the Author

As a long-time jewelry designer, I love the process of sculpting, engraving, and setting everything by hand. Through my exploration of texture-driven techniques and organic shapes, I hope you can feel my passionate energy and intention behind every piece.

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